The south face of Mt. Broderick saw a number of new routes in 2015. Alec Zachreson and I established Thugz Mansion (V 5.10 A2) in the spring. Thugz Mansion is a varied line that ascends from the valley between Liberty Cap and Mt. Broderick. The route reaches Gangsta’s Paradise, a deluxe bivouac ledge at the halfway mark. Above the ledge is a headwall comprised of stellar rock with mostly clean aid and some incredible, moderate free climbing. This has to be one of the great, moderate Grade V routes in Yosemite.

Shortly after finishing this route, Alec and I established a variation to the topout that we called Arch Nemesis (C2). It ascends a long and arching offwidth crack to the summit. We climbed with aid; however, it would make for a tremendous offwidth project for the free climbing afficianado. In May, Tito Krull and I climbed yet another variation to Thugz Mansion, a five-pitch variation to the upper part that we called Voodoo Child (C2).

Next up, Adam Ramsey and I climbed Runaway Train (V 5.9 A3+). This route begins further east, up the valley between Mt. Broderick and Liberty Cap. The route ascends splitter cracks of all sizes on bullet hard, glacial-polished stone. This line had been scoped for several decades and has now finally been realized. I would note that the first four pitches are particularly classic.

For all of these routes, installed hardware is three-eighths inch and stainless steel. Proper care and time was spent to ensure that these worthy products were left for posterity.

– Brandon Adams