American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Yazghil Sar, Northeast Ridge

Pakistan, Karakoram, Hispar Muztagh

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Author: Lee Harrison
  • Climb Year: 2006
  • Publication Year: 2017

When they climbed Yazghil Sar (5,964m) in 2006 (AAJ 2007), Lee Harrison and Peter Thompson (U.K.) believed they were repeating the original route up the peak (AAJ 1988). Later, they learned that the first ascensionists had climbed the northwest flank and north ridge from the Yazghil Glacier. In 2006, Harrison and Thompson climbed the long northeast ridge, approaching directly from the north.

Ironically, while making their ascent, the 2006 team noticed the north ridge to their right as a feasible direct line to the summit and thought about cutting across to it, in the hope that it might be a new route, not realizing that they were in fact already climbing a new route. The team that first reached the main summit in 1987 was Jack Brindle, Ernie McGlashan, and John O’Reilly, and their route is thought to have been repeated at least once.

Information provided by Lee Harrison, Norway

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