In June 2015, Guillermo Cuadrado, Gerber Cucurell, Salvador “Muna” Llorens, and I visited the Lofoten Islands with the intention of opening new routes, seeking adventure and unspoiled rock. After two flights and a day by car, we arrived at Moskenes, from which a little boat and a short walk completed our journey to the base of Helvetestinden (602m). We installed our camp on the beach, about 100 m from the base of the west face, near a whale bone that served as our dinner table, complete with seats.

We had a very clear style in mind: two 45m ropes, 12 cams, and a rack of nuts—no pitons and no bolts. We planned to depend on our skills to find the path and deal with the risks this wall presented. We had never tried to climb a wall of this size in this style, and we enjoyed the feeling of nervous anticipation.

After a night without stars, Gerber and I were first to attack the wall. Our attempt finished in 80m below a compact wall without a clear crack system, making us fear the worst. We returned to the tent to have a coffee and rethink our strategy. Half an hour later, we returned to try a line on the left-hand side of the wall. We climbed quickly until a compact wall blocked the path. It looked insurmountable, and descending from this point would have been complex and would mean leaving the little equipment we had. But the wall provided us with a little ledge leading over to a dihedral system that opened the path to the top. At 11 p.m. we reached the top, having climbed Tierra i Mar (630m, Norwegian 7- A0).

While we were climbing, Muna and Guille climbed the southwest pillar. [The right side of Helvetestinden’s face is generally known as the French Pillar, with several intersecting lines.] The following day we rested and they made an impressive ascent up the middle of the wall, solving a great puzzle. Their new route Noensfoten (570m, ED+ 6c) crosses Ticket to Greenland (Maracek-Svihálek, 2009) high on the face and was climbed in 15 hours.

After a several days we left the beach and went to investigate the Kirkejfjord area. Guille and Gerber climbed a new route on the southwest pillar of Segltinden (Achilles Tendon, 340m, 7-), but on the way down Guille suffered a serious accident, sliding 100m down the northwest slopes. He miraculously survived but had multiple contusions and fractures, including a serious fracture of the cervical vertebrae. The rescue service responded quickly, moving Guille in less than two hours to the hospital in Bodo. We stayed with Guille until his brother relieved us so we could begin our return to Barcelona.

[Editor’s note: The first ascent of the southwest pillar of Segltinden was completed in June 2014 by Norwegians Lars Martin Solberg and Johanne Broch Hauge: Hoist the Colours (8 pitches, 7+ A0). The Catalonian route intersects Hoist the Colours several times but stays mostly to the right. Click here to download a topo and other info on Hoist the Colours.]

Jordi Esteve, Catalonia, Spain

Editor's note: Photos of the Russian route Helvetesvegen (2009) may be found here.