Barguzin Range, Moryan

Russia, Siberia
Author: Lindsay Griffin. Climb Year: 2015. Publication Year: 2016.

In April, Dashi Ayusheev, Alexander Baguza, Anton Fedotov, and Purbo Norboev made the first ascent of Moryan. Their route, up the eastern pillar on the south-southwest face, then along the southeast ridge to the summit, had a vertical gain of a little over 500m (but 742m of climbing) and was graded 5B.

Moryan (2,070m, 54°19'23.93"N, 110°8'1.86"E) lies on the east side of the Barguzin Range, which is east of the northern end of Lake Baikal in Buryatia, Siberia. This range is not glaciated, quite forested, and less than 300km long, but rises to over 2,800m.

The four climbers approached from the village of Kurumkan along logging roads, made base camp in the forest, close to a frozen lake, and put a high camp below the mountain. With winter conditions prevailing in April, snowshoes were desirable. While half the team set up high camp on the 23rd, the other two climbed the first couple of pitches. The next day all four left camp at 5 a.m. with minimal gear for a single push. One of the most difficult sections was pitch four (A4), and until pitch seven the leader used rock shoes. However, the weather then deteriorated, with wind and wet snow, and the team began aid climbing, which they found difficult. In places they drilled 6mm holes for bathooks. A single 8mm bolt was placed at each anchor. They reached the top of the pillar at the end of pitch nine; most of the first seven pitches were nearly 60m. After rappelling 50m off the far side of the tower, the four followed the ridge for 250m (III+) to the summit, which they reached at 7:30 p.m. They were back in high camp at 1 a.m. on April 25.

Lindsay Griffin, with information from Elena Dmitrenko, Risk.ru, Russia



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