Mamison, North Face, Triangle Direct

Russia, Caucasus
Author: Lindsay Griffin. Climb Year: 2015. Publication Year: 2016.

In February, Dmitry Romanenko and Vladimir Roshko (Ukraine) made the first ascent of the center of the Triangle on the north face of Mamison (4,319m), a peak in North Ossetia on the Russia-Georgia border (42°44'45.25"N, 43°47'39.67"E). The 820m new route (1,060m of climbing) was rated 6A and earned first place in the Winter Class of the Ukrainian Championships. The team spent two nights on the face and did not take bolts.

Using snowshoes, the two reached the Nikolaev Hut on February 4, and the next day established a camp at the head of the North Tseyskiy Glacier, where in clear weather the temperature dropped that night to -15°C. On February 6 they plowed through deep snow to cross the bergschrund and climbed 100m before descending for the night. The next day bad weather prevented any activity, and they eventually went down to the hut, only returning on the 12th to dig out the tent.

They left at 4:30 next morning, and by 6:30 p.m. had climbed 10 pitches. It took 1.5 hours to construct an adequate tent platform. The following morning they decided to make a push to the summit. One more pitch led to the top of the Triangle, and then they followed the east ridge to the top, arriving at 3 p.m. They regained the tent that night, and the following day rappelled their route and returned to the Nikolaev Hut.

Lindsay Griffin, with information from Elena Dmitrenko, Risk.ru, Russia



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