American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Jirishanca Chico, Northeast Face, Via Dei Ragni

Peru, Cordillera Huayhuash

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Author: Lorenzo Festorazzi
  • Climb Year: 2015
  • Publication Year: 2016

On August 9, Silvano Arrigoni and I climbed a new route on the icy northeast face of Jirishanca Chico, reaching a sub-summit on its west shoulder. Our route Via Dei Ragni (400m, D+ 90°) climbs the right margin of this face and is mostly 65–70° with a short stretch of vertical climbing. We climbed just right of the Iwatani-Oestemer 1967 route, which climbs the central part of this face through seracs. [Editor’s note: The 1967 route is incorrectly noted as being on the northwest aspect in various publications; it clearly faces northeast.]

After reaching the sub-summit on the west shoulder of the main Jirishanca Chico, our route connects with the main peak’s west ridge (Albrecht-Bloss-Buncsack-Jordan-Wels-Wolf, AAJ 1962), which we climbed short of the summit due to poor conditions and witnessing an avalanche. Retracing our steps from the ridge, we descended our line of ascent.

– Lorenzo Festorazzi, Italy

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