Piedra Bolada, Southwest Face, Rité I´namé

Mexico, Chihuahua, Sierra Madre Occidental, Candameña Canyon
Author: Luis Carlos García Ayala. Climb Year: 2015. Publication Year: 2016.

From November 17–25, Israel Pérez (Mexico), Georg Pollinger (Germany), and I climbed a new route on the right side of Piedra Bolada, ascending its southwest face. Our route is a few hundred feet left of the Piedra Volada waterfall and well to the right of the route Rastamuri (AAJ 2015). I had dreamed of climbing this wall for three years, and it was easy to convince my partners.

After picking up Georg in Mexico City, we drove many hours to Basaseachi and then Chihuahua City, where we bought some supplies. We continued driving a second day, stopping at the home of Don Santiago Pérez in Huajumar. He organized five porters to carry all of our gear and supplies to a base camp below El Gigante. We departed for camp early the next morning.

On November 9 we walked to the base of the Piedra Volada waterfall, searching for a good approach. Three pitches of climbing were required to reach the base of the wall, near the pond formed below the falls, and this took us two days. Once at the wall proper, I led the first pitch of the route, while Isreal and Georg hauled up supplies for nine days on the wall. We bivied in sabine pines and bamboos that night, planning to launch up the wall the next day, November 17.

After three days fixing three more pitches and returning to the bivouac each night, we moved camp up the wall. The route to this point involved many changing corners.

It took another three pitches of climbing before the rest of the wall unfolded. Now the days were passing and our water was slowly being depleted. By our eighth day on the wall the heat and thirst were debilitating. We did a three-pitch push that day before our last night on the wall.

On our ninth day, the final pitch finished up a big water gutter and slab.
From the top we had to make one rappel into the Piedra Volada streambed. That night a big rainstorm caught us, and we spent the night all wet. The next morning we continued up the streambed. A slab to the left of a smaller waterfall connected us to the Rancho San Lorenzo—two hours’ walking by easy trail. After three days of rain we returned to collect our gear from base camp.

The climbing was great on excellent virgin rhyolite. It was an adventure to climb it, with nine days hanging on the wall and 18 pitches total. We climbed the route as free as possible; it relies mostly on natural gear and some bolts where necessary. We called the route Rité I´namé (775m, VI 5.11+ A0), which roughly means “stone in the air” in the Raramurí language.

– Luis Carlos García Ayala, Mexico



Media Gallery