The prolific alpinist Tunç Fındık has climbed many new routes in Turkey’s mountains in recent years. In 2015 he completed about a dozen long new routes, with various partners, ranging from 100m to 600m. These are found mostly in the Ala Dağlar mountains or on the big limestone pyramid of Sivridağ in Antalya.

Below are descriptions of recent climbs provided by Fındık. UIAA grades are given. When there are two grades, the first describes the overall difficulty, and the second rates the technical difficulty of the crux.

Antalya (southwestern Turkey)

Guzyaka Main Tower, South Face. First ascent of the south face by the route İyıengar (100m, 3 pitches, grade V+), by Tunç Fındık and Mustafa Kalayci, December 16, 2014. A shorter traditional route on a limestone face, following exposed, fine cracks. Descent by walking down the normal route.

Guzyaka East Tower, South Face. First ascent of the south face by the route Takozun Esirleri (240m, 5 pitches, grade V+, VI), by Tunç Fındık and Cemal Zerepcan, December 4, 2015. A traditional route on a limestone face, following very fine cracks, chimneys, and a crux small overhang in a featured face.

Sivridağ, East Face. New route Dedegol Style (195m, 4 pitches, grade IV, VI-), by Tunç Fındık and Guclu Ozen, January 1, 2015. This traditional route is mostly on water-worn slabs, with very sharp holds, generally with good belays. Rappel the route.

Sivridağ, East Face. New route Punisher (450m, 10 pitches, grade V, VI+) by Tunç Fındık and Rauf O. Pinarbasi, April 4, 2015. This traditional route is mostly on beautiful water-worn slabs, with very sharp holds and gray-colored rock. It follows a natural line that climbs the so-called “teardrop-shaped slab” and offers enjoyable and exposed climbing all the way, with two terraces in between, finally ending on top of a detached tower. Rappel the route.

Sivridağ, North Face. First ascent of the north face by Tunç Fındık and Rauf O. Pinarbasi, April 30, 2015. The traditionally protected route is called Hayat Bize Guzel (580m, 10 pitches, grade IV, VI+). It follows cracks, chimneys, small overhangs, and fine slabs with good rock in general. Rappel the route.

Ala Dağlar (southern Turkey)

Hacettepe, West Face. New route Hokey Sopası (350m, 6 pitches, grade III, VI-), by Tunç Fındık and Rauf O. Pinarbasi, August 26, 2015. A beautiful alpine traditional climb on slabs, faces, and chimney-crack features. The route ends on top of the 3,000m peak of Hacettepe. Good rock quality in general, with some loose blocks. Descent by walking down the normal route.

Teke Tepe, East Face. New route Capra İbex (170m, 4 pitches, grade III, V+), by Tunç Fındık and Rauf O. Pinarbasi, August 25, 2015. A traditional route that starts from a steep slab, then takes on an exposed chimney. Good limestone in general. Descent by walking down the ordinary route.

Teke Tepe, East Face. New route Pantera Pardus (160m, 4 pitches, grade V), by Tunç Fındık and Rauf O. Pinarbasi, August 27, 2015. A very beautiful line on good limestone, with good and exposed climbing. Some loose blocks, as with any alpine rock climb. Descent by the ordinary route.

Gözcü Kulesi, Southwest Wall. New route Kiev Geceleri (145m, 4 pitches, grade V, VI), by Tunç Fındık, Nedim Urcan, and Serdal Televi, September 9, 2015. A very good, steep traditional route on fine, gray limestone, with bolted main belays. Descent by the route.

Gözcü Kulesi, Southwest Wall. New route Mudurun Surprizi (110m, 3 pitches, grade V, VI+), by Tunç Fındık and Erdinc Turna, September 10, 2015. A very good, steep traditional crack route, with good belays and exposed climbing on fine limestone. Descend from bolted rappel anchors on the route to the right.

Karayalak Tower, West Face. New route Vita Es Morte (225m, 6 pitches, grade VI), by Tunç Fındık, Recep İnce, and Nedim Urcan, September 8, 2015. A very good, steep traditional route, with bolted main belays. Descend via the bolted rappel anchors of the alpine sport route on the right-hand side.

Sulagankaya (3,580m), West Face. New route İblis Merdiveni (600m, grade III+, V-), by Tunç Fındık, Dogan Palut, and Rauf O. Pinarbasi, August 31, 2015. A new route on one of the harder peaks in the Aladag range, this alpine rock climb takes an obvious line up the west face of this steep, castle-like peak. Rock quality is not always good; belays are sometimes not the best. Descent by the adjacent route by rappel.

Bursa (northwestern Turkey)

Narlidere, West Face. New route Hermann Buhl (100m, 2 pitches, grade VI-, VII-), by Tunç Fındık, Serkan Ertem, and Serkan Gunduz, October 9, 2015. This short traditional route has bolted main belays and is a difficult, obvious line on limestone, with technical moves but poor rock quality.

Kaçkar Range (northeastern Turkey)

Kaçkar Dağı (3,932m), West Face, First Main Gully. First ascent by Tunç Fındık, Emrah Ozbay, and Serkan Ertem, July 9, 2013. A mixed route on the highest summit of the Kaçkar Range on black granite or grandiorite, offering wet, loose climbing with some steep ice and snow pitches, along with route-finding problems on a complex face. A classic climb: 700m, TD+ VI WI4+ M6. Descent by the normal route.

Dougald MacDonald, with information supplied by Tunç Fındık