Pyagski, Northwest Face

India, Himachal Pradesh – Lahaul
Author: Lindsay Griffin. Climb Year: 2014. Publication Year: 2016.

On July 4, 2014, almost two months before a Singapore University team made the first ascent of Mt. SUTD (6,056m, AAJ 2015), a small expedition from the Japanese Alpine Club made the first ascent of nearby Pyagski (6,090m). This peak lies on the eastern rim of the largest of the four main glaciers that rise south from the Karcha River, its head forming the watershed with the lower Bara Shigri Glacier.

Approaching from Batal, Kazuo Hoshi, Miyo Suzuki, and Masayo Tsuchiya, with four high-altitude porters, established Camp 2 on the glacier at 5,100m. Two days later, they left at 3 a.m., ascended the glacier, and climbed a steep, northwest-facing slope of deep snow to the rock-strewn summit, which they reached at 8:30 a.m. This peak appears to lie about 2.5km north of SUTD.

Lindsay Griffin, from information provided by Tom Nakamura and the Japanese Alpine News