American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Karambony Tower, Northeast Arête, The Change Experience

Africa, Madagascar, Tsaranoro Valley

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Author: Hamid Reza Shafaghi
  • Climb Year: 2016
  • Publication Year: 2016

In April, Hassan Gerami, Farshad Mijoji, and I opened a new route up the stunning right (northeast) arête of Karambony Tower. We mainly aided at first, using hooks and bolts to make progress up the wall, then did our best to climb the route free. In total we spent six days opening the route, and then another three days climbing it from the ground up. Our route crosses Rain Boto (Albert-Arnold, 1995, 450m 7b+) twice—once at the big midway ledge, and again close to the summit—but does not share any notable amount of climbing. We call our climb The Change Experience (440m, 8b A2, 7c obligatory). [Download the full trip report from the team, containing first-hand beta on traveling to and climbing in Tsaranoro.]

– Hamid Reza Shafaghi, Iran

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