American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Windy Peak, North Face, Dream Within a Dream

Nevada, Red Rock Canyon

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Author: Sam Taggart
  • Climb Year: 2015
  • Publication Year: 2016

In April, Larry DeAngelo, Chad Mueler, Bill Thiry, and I climbed a new route on the north face of Windy Peak. Windy Peak is located about two and half hours from the Black Velvet Canyon trailhead. Our route followed a very obvious wide crack in the middle of the face for six pitches (800’, 5.8) to reach the top of the buttress. From here we joined a route Larry and Bill had climbed previously, Big Sleep (5.9), for three more pitches to reach the summit. We called the initial part of our route Dream Within a Dream (800’, 5.8) after a poem by Edgar Allen Poe. We descended from the summit via a nontechnical hike.

– Sam Taggart

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