Tahu Rutum, West Face Attempt and Rescue

Pakistan, Hispar Muztagh
Author: From Info by Oh Young-Hoon, Korea. Climb Year: 2014. Publication Year: 2015.

During the summer of 2013 an attempt on Tahu Rutum resulted in a serious injury and rescue, followed by unusual difficulties between the Korean expedition, their logistical agencies, and Askari Aviation, the company responsible for rescue services for mountaineers in Pakistan.

Chang Kwi-yong had led of team of seven to attempt the west face of Tahu Rutum (6,651m). The climbing leader, Sim Kwon-sik, was hit by rockfall high on the face on July 26. Descending through the night and well into the next day, Sim’s partners managed to get him to Camp 1, at 5,100m on the glacier, from which he was rescued by an Askari Aviation helicopter the next day.

However, the climbers had been issued their peak permit without depositing a rescue bond, resulting in their agencies in Pakistan and Korea being forced to borrow the balance owed for two helicopter flights from the unused rescue deposits of Czech and Italian expeditions that were returning from the Trango area—about $40,000 in all. Initially, the agencies were able to pay back only half of the money, leading Askari to announce several months later that the company would no longer rescue Korean mountaineers, and would request the Pakistan Ministry of Tourism not to issue any climbing permits to Korean expeditions. Fortunately, the problem was resolved in February 2014, when the expedition leader, climbing leader, agency manager, and related personnel agreed on a plan for repaying the funds.

From Information Provided by Oh Young-Hoon, Korea