American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Muchu Chhish, Attempt

Pakistan, Karakoram, Batura Muztagh

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Author: Lindsay Griffin
  • Climb Year: 2014
  • Publication Year: 2015

In August, Phil De-Beger, Tim Oates, and Peter Thompson (U.K.) attempted unclimbed Muchu Chhish (7,453m, among the highest unclimbed summits in the world for which it is possible to obtain a permit). 

The plan was to climb alpine-style along the south and west ridges, with a high traverse below the summit of Batura VI (7,400m). However, after finding hard ice on the lower section of the south ridge, and realizing they had no chance of climbing quickly enough if they pitched this section, they retreated from 6,000m. 

The team then moved base camp to the Morkun Valley. From a bivouac at 4,900m, De-Beger and Oates attempted the south face of unclimbed Pregar (variously reported from 6,083m to 6,300m), retreating from 5,600m due to dangerous snow conditions.

Lindsay Griffin

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