American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Little Trango, Eid Mubarak

Pakistan, Karakoram, Baltoro Muztagh

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Author: Imran Junaidi, Pakistan
  • Climb Year: 2014
  • Publication Year: 2015

“Are you going to climb on the Trango Towers under the supervision of some Western climber?” This was the usual opening question. This would be followed by a barrage of inquiries about our skills, gear, past accidents, and everything that pointed toward the Towers not being made for Pakistani rock climbers. Owais Khattak, Usman Tariq, and I spent three days transporting gear from a high camp at 4,800m to the base of Little Trango (ca 5,445m). 

Over the festival of Eid, July 29–30, Usman and I started up a prominent corner system on the southwest side of the formation until reaching the top of a pedestal, where we traversed down and right to join the American route (PM Wall, McMahon-Wharton, 2000) on the south face, then followed this to the summit. On the first day we climbed 190m before bivouacking. In total we climbed 250m at 5.10d A0. I led all nine pitches, and we named our line Eid Mubarak (Merry Eid).

Imran Junaidi, Pakistan

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