American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Peak 41, North Face, Attempt

Nepal, Mahalangur Himal – Khumbu Section

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Author: Oh Young-hoon
  • Climb Year: 2014
  • Publication Year: 2016

In October 2014, Choi Ji-won, Kim Jeong-yeop, Ku Eun-su, and Wang Jun-ho attempted Peak 41 (6,648m), starting up the left-hand couloir on the north face, a little to the right of the line tried by Jack Geldard and Rob Greenwood in 2012. On October 6, the four Koreans left base camp at 5,300m, two hours from the foot of the face, and climbed the lower snow slopes to a bivouac at 5,600m. Next day the climbing became more mixed, with a few difficult sections. Logistical problems due to hauling slowed progress, and they spent their second night at 5,750m. Here they decided to rest for a day, and the following day they climbed only to 5,870m through snow showers. On day five they climbed to a shoulder on the east ridge at 6,140m, but on the next day only managed one pitch before being forced back to the bivouac site by heavy snowfall. They sat out two more nights at this spot before an improvement allowed an eight-hour rappel descent and return to base camp.

Oh Young-hoon, Korea

Editor's note: Partway up the couloir, the Koreans moved farther right on a line noted by Geldard and Greenwood, which, although looking harder than the continuation of the couloir, would lead to a much higher exit onto the east ridge, thereby avoiding a loose section that defeated the British pair.

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