Zhong Nan Shan, Qiezi Feng, Fairy Fingers
China, Shaanxi Province, Qin Mountains
Author: Xia Zhongming.
Climb Year: 2014.
Publication Year: 2015.
Cycal-Yang Fan and Ye Yun climbed a new route on the granite formation called Qiezi (“Eggplant”) Feng in July. After rappelling the line to clean it and place bolted anchors on all 18 pitches, they climbed the first seven pitches (up to 5.10b and heavily vegetated) on July 20. They spent the night in a portaledge and the next day climbed the remaining 11 pitches to the top. Pitches 8–12 formed the crux and involved a continuous vertical crack, from tiny fingers to offwidth. Pitches 13–15 had discontinuous cracks and run-out climbing up to 5.10b. The top pitches were easier and joined existing routes. They named the route Fairy Fingers (520m, 5.12b) after the thin finger cracks.
Xia Zhongming, Germany, and Cycal-Yang Fan, China