American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Pik Kosmos, Attempt

Kyrgyzstan, Tien Shan, Western Kokshaal-Too

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Author: Lindsay Griffin
  • Climb Year: 2014
  • Publication Year: 2015

A Polish expedition comprising Wojciech Anzel, Jakub Galka, Katarzyna Kowalska, Piotr Picheta, and Radoslaw Robak spent July 27–September 2 in Kyrgyzstan, with the aim of climbing Peak Kosmos (5,940m). From their drop-off point below the Kotur Glacier it was 36km to the base of the mountain. It took 11 days of ferrying loads to get a high camp established below the peak, and bad weather meant they were unable to climb any warm-up peaks. After hasty acclimatization toward the Grigorev–Palgov watershed, the team attempted a large snow couloir toward the right side of the north-northeast face of Kosmos, leading to the northwest ridge, west of unclimbed Peak 5,681m. They reached the crest (ca 5,300m) before retreating.

Kosmos is frequently, but erroneously, reported to be unclimbed. The mountain was climbed in the 1980s during the Soviet competition era, when it was referred to as Pik Schmidta. The Soviet team climbed the north-northeast face at 5B and then descended the northeast ridge.

Lindsay Griffin, with information from Emily Ward, U.K.

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