Raru Valley, Sonam Ri, West Face

India, Zanskar
Author: Stéphane Schaffter. Climb Year: 2014. Publication Year: 2015.

In 2011, when I traveled to the Raru Valley with a group of young climbers, members of the expedition made the first ascent of GoCook Peak (6,050m, AAJ 2012) and noticed an unclimbed 6,060m mountain to the northeast. In June 2014, hoping to find the best snow conditions for making ski descents, Laura Bohleber, Eric Gachet, Christelle Marceau, Pierre Morand du Paquier, Jérémy Pernet, and I installed base camp on the Katkar Glacier below Katkar Kangri (R35, 6,148m, AAJ 2013). At 7 a.m. on June 27 we left our high camp, just below the snout of the small glacier east of Katkar Kangri, and reached the west face of Peak 6,060m. The skiers climbed 50° slopes to the virgin summit and then, just as the sun hit the face, they started on their 1,000m descent, which they completed safely, carving excellent turns. We named the peak Sonam Ri, which in Tibetan means the “summit that brings good luck.”

Stéphane Schaffter, Switzerland



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