Rupshu, Various First Known Ascents

India, Ladakh
Author: Eberhard Jurgalski. Climb Year: 2014. Publication Year: 2015.

In June and July, Karl Herberger made a number of solo ascents of high peaks in this area. On June 27 he traversed Peak 6,100m from east to west and then climbed the southeast ridge of Spangnak Ri (6,390m). Peak 6,100m (a.k.a. Kiager Ri) is a largely dry peak that was climbed via the west ridge by Indians in 2012. Spangnak Ri’s southeast ridge was climbed twice in 2012, the year the peak was officially opened to climbing, and had been climbed prior to this by the southwest face.

On July 1 Herberger climbed the northwest ridge of Chalung North (a.k.a. Kula North, 6,405m, 33.1526°N, 78.4209°E).

On July 13 he climbed Shuchule (6,535m, 32.9926°N, 78.5102°E). He first climbed Shuchule West (ca 6,470m) from the west, but then found the connecting ridge to the main summit unsafe, so he descended southeast until picking up the southwest ridge of Shuchule, which he followed to the top.

Herberger’s last mountain was Peak ca 6,295m (33.8201°N, 78.2325°E) in the Eastern Ladakh Range, an easily accessible top on a long ridge rising south from the Leh road, south of Pangong Lake. He climbed the south ridge (UIAA III) and descended the south face.

Eberhard Jurgalski, Germany



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