American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Jangyaraju I, North Face, Libre

Peru, Cordillera Blanca

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Author: Sevi Bohorquez
  • Climb Year: 2015
  • Publication Year: 2016

In late May, Basque climbers Kepa Berasategi and Odei Girado climbed a new route on Jangyaraju I (5,675m). On May 23 they traveled from Huaraz to Collon (ca 3,400m), entered the Ishinca Valley, and trekked past Jatunpampa. Before reaching a waterfall, they crossed to the right side of the river. They then continued right (west) and followed the Jangya Urán (a small tributary, a.k.a. Uran Mangya). Within six hours they’d gained 1,200m. They set up a base camp (ca 4,500m) in a pampa just below the moraine leading up to Jangyaraju.

The next day they climbed for two hours up the moraine and made camp (ca 4,900m) just below the glacier, where it was easy to collect water. On May 25 they began their climb, first trending up and right toward the northwest ridge to avoid the glacier. They climbed some easy passages (UIAA III) to reach the base of the rocky north wall—in total this approach took approximately two and a half hours from their high camp. They began up a weakness left of a prominent prow and climbed mostly good granite for 250m (6a+ A2). Atop the rock face they climbed 400m of lower angle snow, ice, and mixed terrain (60° M5) to the summit. They descended the same day, rappelling back to the glacier.

They named their probable new route Libre (650m, MD+).

– Sevi Bohorquez, Peru

This AAJ article has been reformatted into HTML. Please contact us if you spot an error.

Photos and Topos Click photo to view full size and see caption