American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Storm Creek Headwall, New Routes

Canada, Canadian Rockies

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Author: Jon Walsh
  • Climb Year: 2014
  • Publication Year: 2015

On November 8, Jon Walsh and Marc-André Leclerc (both Canada) completed the first ascent of a traditionally protected mixed route on the Storm Creek Headwall: the Plum (120m, WI6 M7). Storm Creek Headwall is similar to the Stanley Headwall, located just to the west. The route is on a prow to the right of the Peach (110m, WI5 M8) and climbs steep rock and thin ice smears for three pitches.

Walsh returned to the area on January 23, 2015, with Jon Simms and together completed the first ascent of Kahveology (160m, WI5 M8). The four-pitch mixed route finishes on the final ice pillar (WI5) of the route Check Your Head. Unlike the Plum, this route required four bolts to protect the M8 first pitch, and bolted anchors were installed atop each pitch.

– From information by Jon Walsh, Canada

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