Svarog, North Face

Kyrgyzstan, Pamir Alai, Ashat Gorge
Author: Information provided by Anna Piunova. Climb Year: 2014. Publication Year: 2015.

The Russian team of Vladislav Dubrovin, Vadim Kalinkin, Konstantin Markevich, and Dmitry Skotnikov completed the first ascent of Svarog (4,960m), the central peak of the north-facing wall at the head of the Ashat Gorge. The team spent 10 days ascending the wall, climbing capsule-style and using extensive aid, including dozens of bolts for protection, belays, and rappels. A blank wall and the nearly horizontal 15-meter roof above it (pitches 18 and 19) were climbed almost entirely with bolts. The climbers reported the route as 1,250m, with 700m on the big-wall portion, and graded the ascent 6B A3+.

A complete trip report (in Russian), with numerous photos and topos, can be downloaded here in PDF form (49 MB). 

Information provided by Anna Piunova, Mountain.ru



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