Svarog, North Face
Kyrgyzstan, Pamir Alai, Ashat Gorge
The Russian team of Vladislav Dubrovin, Vadim Kalinkin, Konstantin Markevich, and Dmitry Skotnikov completed the first ascent of Svarog (4,960m), the central peak of the north-facing wall at the head of the Ashat Gorge. The team spent 10 days ascending the wall, climbing capsule-style and using extensive aid, including dozens of bolts for protection, belays, and rappels. A blank wall and the nearly horizontal 15-meter roof above it (pitches 18 and 19) were climbed almost entirely with bolts. The climbers reported the route as 1,250m, with 700m on the big-wall portion, and graded the ascent 6B A3+.
A complete trip report (in Russian), with numerous photos and topos, can be downloaded here in PDF form (49 MB).
Information provided by Anna Piunova, Mountain.ru