Torres del Campanario, new routes

Argentina, Central Andes
Author: Marcelo Scanu. Climb Year: 2015. Publication Year: 2015.

Torres del Campanario (ca 5,090m) is nice set of towers outside of Mendoza in the Cordillera Frontal of Argentina’s Central Andes. It has granite very similar to the walls in southern Patagonia. In March, a number of fine new lines were opened in this relatively unknown area. The approach is not easy, with a steep snow and scree field to reach Paso Tucson (ca 4,600m), a high pass that provides access down into the alpine cirque where the towers are located.

In early March, a team of four Argentineans visited one of the largest walls, erecting a camp at ca 4,300m. After scoping things out, Diego Nakamura and Lucas Alzamora opened Dias de Insomnio (305m, 6c+ A0), and Carloncho Guerra and Macarena Zanotti opened an adjacent route to the left they called Che Gil Otario (350m, 7a). Climbing at the same time, the two groups united on the summit of one of the three lesser, eastern summits but did not continue to the highest one.

Later in March, Luciano Fiorenza and Pablo Pontoriero were active in the same zone. They first opened a beautiful crack climb on a tower comprised of orange-colored granite, which is located in the approach valley to Torres del Campanario, near Laguna Arenales. They called it Aguja El Topo (180m, 6c). Afterward, they traveled over Paso Tuscon and ascended the peak Cerro Krakus (ca 4,900m)—up a tricky glacier with many snow penitentes—to study new-route options on the adjacent Torres del Campanario. On March 17 they climbed No Hay Pìcaro Sin Suerte (300m, 6b). The route is said to climb excellent granite and reaches the highest summit of Torres del Campanario. 

– Marcelo Scanu, Argentina




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