Vagakallen: Corner Kick

Norway, Lofoten
Author: Information from Adam Pustelnik. Climb Year: 2014. Publication Year: 2015.

Over two days in August, Andreas Klarstrom (Norway) and Adam Pustelnik (Poland) climbed a very difficult variation to Freya (Jasper-Jasper, 1998, 800m 7c A3+) on the Storpillaren, the central pillar on the north face of Vagakallen (942m). After 13 pitches on Freya, the two broke left to a shallow corner system and climbed five new traditionally protected pitches (all 7c to 8a, one fixed beak) before rejoining Freya and following this and other routes to the top. The new line is called Corner Kick (900m, 9-/F8a).

The following information is from Adam Pustelnik's blog, where it is possible to see many photos from the climb.

Corner Kick: 9- (F8a), 900m. to the summit, Storpillaren,Vagakallen, 8-9.09.2014, Andreas Klarstrom, Adam Pustelnik

Gear used:

  • 2-3 sets of micro nuts with offsets
  • 1 set of standard size nuts
  • Cams – single set from smallest to nr.3 BD (blue)
  • 15 draws
  • Double 60m. rope
  • One bird beak left fixed on boulder start of pitch 16.

Topo:

1-13. Follow Freya to pitch 13 (7-)

13. Entry pitch, 8+ (F7c+), 40m.:

Move belay 12 of Freya left to the dihedral for better rope positioning. Climb Freya for 20m. Before going right on the belay ledge climb straight up to enter the left dihedral. Just before entering the dihedral protection left on micro nuts. Belay on the slightly slabby part of the dihedral.

14. Stemming level 1, 8/8+ (F7c), 20m.:

Stem up the dihedral to a no hands niche.

15. Stemming level 2, 8+(F7c+), 30m.:

Up to the end of the dihedral, exit right to belay on top of slanting ledge.

16. Panic mode, 9- (F8a), 40m.:

Boulder stem start passed a fixed beak. Climb right under the roof to a thin crack system going up and left until a big slanting ledge belay.

17. Spooky slab pitch, 9- (F8a), 30m.:

Climb up small pillar (bit loose), continue straight up slab (possible protection on a small block right) and traverse a bit left to reach a seam just right of the arête (good protection). Climb this to the big bivy ledge to meet with pitch 22 of Freya.

18. Alternative free version of pitch 22 of Freya.

Climb the back of the niche as Freya, then traverse left and a bit down to reach good holds on the face above. Climb this to a big wide crack and go back right to meet again with Freya.

Finish with Freya to Storpillaren, and to the summit.

Note:

If beginning slabs are wet (pitches 1-8) enter the ramp from pitch 9 via system of steep grass ledges from the left. Start in the gully where you can fill water.



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