The events in question occurred between May 7 and May 19. Prior to this, the climbers spent a week in Haines, Alaska, waiting to fly in to the Seward Glacier, during which time storms broke precipitation records for much of southeast Alaska. Forecasts toward the end of this weather cycle projected a significant but short-lived high-pressure system. On May 7 the two-member climbing team was flown from Haines to the lower Seward Glacier (1,129 meters). The party’s objective was the east ridge of Mt. Augusta (4,289 meters), reached by a long traverse over Mt. Eaton.

The climbers selected the east ridge of Mt. Eaton instead of the narrow, rocky southwest ridge. One member of the team was older and slower. Mindful of this and the short weather window, the team decided to stash some supplies at an elevation of 2,039 meters in order to make a lighter ascent of Mt. Eaton. On May 10, from their high camp on an exposed foresummit at 2,652 meters, it took the climbers a little more than five hours to cover the three kilometers (nearly two miles) to the main summit of Eaton. During the ascent they encountered false tops, huge mushroom domes, and an undulating, corniced ridge. As the climbing party started its descent from the summit on the same day, cloud cover descended with them. By the time the climbers reached camp, one member of the party had reached his limit and could go no further.

Based on the forecast, the party had expected one more day before a storm occurred. Unfortunately, the climbers found themselves groping in almost total whiteout conditions the next day—an untenable situation in the crevassed and corniced terrain. Hence, they climbed back to their campsite and set up their tent again. With only one day of spare food, the party was trapped for the next eight days due to severe weather conditions. Dealing with the storm became physically demanding due to the combination of cold, dampness, minimal rations, constrained hydration, confinement, and periodic exertion. Their food ration was about half an energy bar each day.

During this time, massive amounts of snow accumulated and the flat summit became a corniced dome. They had to dig out the tent repeatedly and re-pitch on top of the accumulating snow pack. The party had to keep the tent sealed most of the time, so they could not safely use the stove. Consequently, they relied on melting water in their sleeping bags.

A second attempt to descend on May 15 served only to demonstrate their weakened ability to cope with the thigh-deep snow. The climbers contacted Jasper Dispatch by satellite phone, and they were transferred to the Kluane Duty Officer. (Park personnel had been in regular contact with the climbers.) When a brief clearance finally came on May 19, they were extracted by helicopter to Haines Junction in an impressive rescue organized by Kluane National Park. It was several more days before the weather settled fully and their base camp equipment could be retrieved.

Analysis

Team limitations drove the difficult decision not to continue descending late on May 10. They probably put too much reliance on the weather forecast. The weather information came from a collation of various weather sources: Kluane National Park weather models, U.S. National Park Service partners on the Alaska coast, discussions with the park rescue pilot, and direct contact with the climbers at least twice a day in order to assess firsthand observations of visibility and precipitation trends. The eight-day storm was unusual in duration but not unprecedented. It is possible that had the team remained at their low point, instead of re-ascending and pitching the tent, they might have been able to use brief clearances to continue the descent.