Castle Dome (10,800’), in Kings Canyon, has been on my list of places to visit for quite a while, with good-looking rock, a high adventure factor, giant approach, and only one recorded climb: Silmarillion (IV 5.10), established by Mark Menge and Jack Roberts (AAJ 1979).

In mid-July, Caitlin Taylor and I made the beautiful, 13-mile one-way approach to the dome over a three-day weekend. After setting up a scenic camp in the meadow below the rock, we set our sights on the southeast arête, which forms the right-hand skyline of the dome.

The ensuing seven-pitch climb provided an aesthetic line in an incredible setting. The southeast arête (1,100’, IV 5.10 PG13) offers good variety—fun face, big jugs, pulling over wild roofs, and a few cracks—all at moderate difficulties. Later in the summer the route saw its first repeat ascent, with the climbers noting its potential to become a new, moderate Sierra classic.

Vitaliy Musiyenko