Dragmorpa Ri, southeast face, second official ascent

Nepal, Langtang Himal
Author: Peter Jensen-Choi. Climb Year: 2014. Publication Year: 2015.

In April a 13-member Korean team—the Vision Expedition, led by Kim Tae-Hoon—climbed Dragmorpa Ri (6,185m) on the Tibetan border, west of the upper reaches of the main Langtang Glacier. The group arrived at its 4,700m base camp on April 10, and on the 14th established Camp 1 farther up the Langtang Glacier. On the 16th they set up Camp 2 (5,100m), just above the glacier and more or less due east of the mountain, in preparation for a summit attempt the following day. This was postponed to the 18th due to poor weather. On April 18 all 13 climbers, split into three groups, reached 5,700m, where on contacting base camp by radio they were asked to retreat due to the perceived danger of sending a large number of inexperienced climbers through a reported crevasse field.

Over the next two days, while the climbers were divided into summit, descent, and support teams, Sherpa staff ferried provisions to Camp 2. On April 21, Jin Jang-kyum, Kim Kyung-ryul, Ngwang Karsang Sherpa, Phura Nuru Sherpa, and Tsering Thundu Sherpa climbed the southeast face to the summit, regaining base camp on the 22nd.

Although Dragmorpa Ri almost certainly was climbed in the past by unauthorized parties, the only previous official ascent took place on May 30, 2013, when the Russian Roman Gretzky also climbed the southeast face, the most logical line on this side of the mountain. His ascent more or less followed the same line as the Koreans, except Gretzky climbed higher on the side glacier and started more to the left, against the rocks.

From information supplied by Peter Jensen-Choi, Korea, Roman Gretzky, Russia, and Rodolphe Popier, France



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