American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing
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Dom Brakk (5,830m) and Panoramas

Asia, Pakistan, Panmah Muztagh

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Author: Pierre Neyret, France
  • Climb Year: 2011
  • Publication Year: 2012

In May 2008, when I was making my first ski traverse from Shimshal to Askole via the Lupke La, the high pass connecting the Braldu and Sim Gang Glaciers, I climbed an easy peak north of the Sim Gang Glacier (36°01’36.8” N, 75°41’41.1” W) while the other members of my group were reaching the Sim La (5,450m). I climbed the southeast flank and southwest ridge from 5,000m on the Sim Gang Glacier, the ascent featuring a 150m ice slope of 40-45°. The summit is essentially a shoulder on the southwest ridge of Peak 5,925m, but I did not continue to the main summit, which was quite far, the crest dropping slightly to a small saddle before rising again.

In May 2011, on my third Shimshal-Askole ski traverse, I repeated the ascent with four clients, again stopping at the shoulder. One of the female clients was named Dominique, so we named the peak Dom Brakk. It gives a magnificent view over the entire Sim Gang Glacier. [Editor's note: Given the location, it seems likely 5,830m and 5,925m had been climbed, but this is uncertain.] Earlier we had summited Braldu Brakk (6,200m), largely on skis, from the Lukpa La to the south [the first-ascent route climbed by the 1956 London University expedition]. During our 21-day traverse we experienced 20 days of sunshine.

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