American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Bondid Valley, Rustam Brakk (5,450m), Ali Route

Asia, Pakistan, Nangma Valley

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Author: Irena Mrak, Slovenia
  • Climb Year: 2009
  • Publication Year: 2010

The Bondid Valley extends to the west of Kande village, opposite the well-known Nangma Valley. Mojca Svajger and I visited this valley in September after an unsuccessful attempt on Rakaposhi. We set up base camp at 4,500m on the left side of the Muntin Glacier, where there is some grass and running water. Our first goal was a mountain called Muntin (ca 6,500m), the most dominant peak in the area, but conditions did not permit an attempt, so we chose a lower, neighboring mountain in a side valley to the northeast of Muntin.

The east side of Muntin (ca 6,500m). Rustam Brakk is located farther along the ridgeline to the right. Irena Mrak

On September 12, we climbed the east side of this peak (IV 80°/50-70°, 400m), which we named Rustam Brakk after a porter from Kande. The climbing was great, and in the upper part we could see into neighboring valleys with many unclimbed peaks from 5,500m to 6,500m.

From what we could see, Muntin offers nice options for climbing, but one would have to be in the area earlier in the season, when there is more snow and the crevasses are still closed. Rustam Brakk, on the other hand, can be climbed quite late in the season, and it appears that neighboring mountains could be climbable from May till September.

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