Bara Khun Group, Anbar Chhish (5,886m), West Ridge-West Face

Asia, Pakistan, Karakoram, Ghujerab Muztagh
Author: Lindsay Griffin. Climb Year: 2010. Publication Year: 2011.

In July and August 2010 a Joint Japanese-Pakistani expedition visited the Bara Khun Valley, north of the Karakoram Highway. The team was led by Japanese cartographer Tsuneo Miyamori, and both he and Shizuo Akai carried out considerable GPS survey work. They left the Bara Khun checkpost on the KKH (36°52’33? N, 75°09’49? E, 3,603m) and headed northeast up the Rosh Dar, to establish base camp at 4,495m. From there they moved a little east, then south up the Rosh Parpik Glacier, to place Camp 1 at 5,064m (36°54’37? N, 75°20’11? E). This glacier basin lies northwest of the Khunjerab Pass and due north of Koksil.

From the same location some years ago a Japanese expedition, led by Mr Takasaki, moved west up a side branch they named D Glacier and made the first ascent of Bibitilga Chhish (5,906m), via the northeast ridge.

The 2010 expedition continued farther south up the glacier, then moved east to place Camp 2 (5,532m) below unclimbed Anbar Chhish. From there they climbed the west ridge and face to the summit (36°53’36? N, 75°22’00? E).



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