Flock You, Lunar Eclipse, For Whom the Bell Tolls, Small Bell Chimney Route

China, Xinjiang, Altai, Keketouhai National Geologic Park
Author: Mike Dobie, China. Climb Year: 2013. Publication Year: 2014.

In June we returned to Keketuohai, and as in 2012 were welcomed by the park authorities (AAJ 2013). Permission to climb was granted after fulfilling a number of basic requirements, which have been subject to change over the past few years. Lodging was made available at the park hotel (Keketuohai Jiedai Zhongxin); we had to register with the local police; we had to purchase a one-time park entrance ticket for 98 RMB; we had to give the park administration proof of our climbing competence (an AAJ membership card will suffice, or indeed any bit of paper that shows you know what you are doing as a climber); and we had to sign a liability waiver. Currently, non-Chinese nationals are unable to stay overnight inside the park due to border regulations. There is a two-for-the-price-of-one transportation ticket into the park from Keketuohai town. To Divine Bell it is a distance of 23km, and a one-day round-trip costs 49 RMB for two people.

Of the 26 days there, we were able to climb on 20; the rest were plagued by thunderstorms and rain. We put up a number of shorter routes (on Tongs Wall and Crocodile Hill), and longer climbs on a new crag named the Flock and on Small Bell Mountain.

The Flock is a very broad dome downhill and left of Shepherd's Rock. It is directly up the hillside opposite Divine Bell. On the right side of the wall, Garrett Bradley and Bryn Thomas put up the five-pitch Flock You (about 5.9) on trad gear, while just to the left I climbed the one-pitch Ass Wagger at around 5.12. On the left side of the face, and terminating partway up the wall, Bryn and I climbed Lunar Eclipse (5.10+/11-, two pitches) and Mr. Bumbles (5.10-, three pitches). On the left edge of the wall Sarah Rasmussen and Zhuo Lei put up a three-pitch line at around 5.10.

On Small Bell Mountain we repeated an established route, with nine pitches up to 5.10+/11-. [For Whom the Bell Tolls, Jeremy Collins, Mark Jenkins, and team, 2010]. Bryn and I then repeated the first five pitches of this route to the tree ledge, then made a double pendulum out right to reach the start of a parallel crack system, which we climbed in a further five pitches, the first being 5.11. Tour de Bell provided a great day out with loads of finger and hand cracks, exposure, and fun. A No. 6 Camalot would be useful for the 5.10 chimney/offwidth on pitch eight; otherwise, run it out with a No. 5.

To the right Sarah and I climbed Small Bell Chimney Route in 10 pitches to 5.11-. This follows the major chimney system in the middle of the Bell and is reached by breaking out right after the first pitch of the established route. The climbing is fairly sustained at 5.10/10+. All routes on the Small Bell have a walk-off to the left.



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