Jarjinjabo Massif, Rim Route; Peak ca 5,500m, south ridge and upper west ridge

China, Sichuan, Shaluli Shan
Author: Mike Dobie, China. Climb Year: 2013. Publication Year: 2014.

In October a team including Andrew Hedesh, Sylvain Millet, Claire Thomas, Thomas Vialletet, Zhuo Lei, and I visited the Jarjinjabo Massif, north of the Zhopu pastures. We climbed a number of new routes, including but not limited to, those described below. Residents of the nearby monastery were friendly, and the locals didn't mind us climbing. The best months for rock climbing are July and August. There is a chance of rain at this time, but the weather clears for long periods.

Andrew, Zhuo Lei, and I climbed Rim Route on the flanks of the rock peak southeast of Peak 5,382m (PLA map). Andrew and I then made an all-free ascent. This is a great climb that follows a prominent feature rising out of the valley floor to the summit of a pointed tower. Single-bolt anchors (with a carabiner) were placed for rappelling to the top of pitch eight, after which downclimbing and rappels from trees led to the ground.

From Zhopu Lake, walk northeast, past the monastery, until a large gully and waterfall appears on the left. Rim Route climbs steep rock to the right of this, reached by working up through the forest. We completed the line in 16 pitches (one of which is a diagonal rappel) and some walking/scrambling. The crux, on pitch 14, is 5.10b.

In the same month Zhuo Lei and I climbed Peak ca 5,500m, a fine moderate mountaineering route following a nice couloir and ridge with steep snow and easy glacier travel. From the monastery we ascended northeast to a higher valley and lake, where we camped. Next day we scrambled up a talus slope to the hanging valley below rocky Peak 5,556m (PLA map), and then climbed a snow couloir on the right to gain a watershed ridge. We followed this north, and near the top worked right, across the glacier, to reach the west ridge of the triangular snowy summit of Peak 5,550m, which we followed to the top. We then reversed the route to our tent.



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