For 20 days in September, Carloncho Guerra, Aztlan Madio, and I visited the Miyar, intending to climb new rock routes. We took a public bus to the road head and didn't hire porters, horses, or even a cook for base camp. With bad weather and heavy sacks, it took six days to reach base camp on the moraine of the Chhudong Glacier.

After waiting out more bad weather, a window suddenly appeared, and on September 16 we climbed the north face of Masala Peak. Although we probably made the first ascent of this great rock wall, we didn't go to the summit, stopping at ca 5,500m because we had brought no ice gear for the final, nontechnical, section. We rappelled our line, which we named Los Crotos (705m, 6b+), regaining our tents at midnight.

Two days later, in continued good weather, but with the walls still heavily iced, we attempted the left pillar of the west face of Neverseen Tower. Starting left of the 1992 Italian route, Horn Please, we climbed six pitches and then made a cold bivouac on a narrow ledge. Next day we climbed four pitches and just about reached the Italian route. At this point increasing ice in the cracks was making progress difficult and time-consuming. We descended after having climbed 520m to 6c, naming our variant Changa Style.

Lucas Alzamora, Argentina