Zach Hoyt (U.S.) and his partner “Shaz” (AUS) established a possible new route on the south face of Cats Ears Spire, to the left of the Least Snowed Up Route (900m, IV 5.10+, Edwards-Millar, AAJ 2003), which climbs just right of the southeast arête to the spire’s east summit. It’s possible that the new route may share pitches with the former near the top; however, details and a topo for the climb are currently lacking (900m, 5.10/5.11).

There are only two other known routes on this spire: the east face (Culbert-Douglas-Starr, 1972), and the northwest face (Elias-McMullen, 1996), which also both reached the east summit. The west summit has since been gained from the Cat’s Brow (the notch between the two ears, via the Elias-McMullen); few people—perhaps fewer than 15 total—have reached either summit.

From information supplied by Dieter Klose