Bear Glacier, many first ascents

Alaska, Alaska Saint Elias Mountains
Author: Dave Hart . Climb Year: 2013. Publication Year: 2014.

On May 19, our group of five—Greg Encelewski, Galen Flint, Hannah North, Ben Still, and I—flew to the Ultima Thule Lodge with pilot Paul Claus. The next morning Paul dropped us at a ca 8,500’ base camp on the northeast fork of the Bear Glacier. This remote part of the Alaska Saint Elias Mountains is overshadowed by the larger peaks of Mt. Natazhat (13,435’) 10 miles to the north, Mt. Bear (14,831’) seven miles to the south, and Mt. Bona (16,550’) 19 miles to the west. We could find no record of any previous climbs in this valley. This was my 31st expedition into the Wrangell-St. Elias Mountains and my 25th flying with Paul.

Over 10 days, our group summited eight peaks and attempted a ninth. All of these climbs were first known ascents, between AK Grade I and II in difficulty: The Cub (10,540’), southeast ridge; Panda Peak (11,425’), west ridge; Polar Peak (11,350’), east ridge; Bruin Peak (12,150’), southwest face; Lesser Panda (10,850’), east ridge; Sow Peak (11,875’) north face; Oso Peak (10,390’) east ridge; Kuma Peak (10,450’), southwest ridge; and Canbear Peak (10,750’), west ridge, attempt.

Highlights from the trip include 10 days of glorious sunshine, a group ski descent from the summit of Sow Peak, and beautiful powder skiing in the Polar-Panda bowl. [A detailed trip report with photos can be found in Scree, August 2013.]

Dave Hart



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