In April, two Japanese climbers, Daizo Watanabe and Tani Takeshi, reported a possible new route on the south face of Mt. Frances, right above the Kahiltna base camp. Their route climbs one of several obvious, large gullies on the south aspect of the peak. Most of the route consisted of moderate snow and ice terrain; a steeper rock gully up high had reported difficulties up to M5. The duo called their climb Jumping Jack Flash (AI4 M5).

Given the many unreported team and solo ascents on this aspect of Mt. Frances throughout the years, it’s suspected that much of the Japanese route had been climbed previously but not reported. It should also be noted that typically this route is highly hazardous later in the season, turning into one of the biggest garbage chutes in the range and unleashing spectacular rockfall.

From information provided by Mark Westman and Coley Gentzel, Denali National Park