Various ascents

Antarctica, Antarctic Peninsula
Author: Phil Wickens. Climb Year: 2013. Publication Year: 2014.

I made two trips to the Antarctic Peninsula in late 2013 and early 2014. In December, operating from the yacht Spirit of Sydney with Sean Colyer, Matthew Flyn, and Glenn Wilkes, we visited Cuverville Island and made probably the first ascent of the most northerly couloir on the east face. At around two-thirds height we left the main couloir for a subsidiary branch on the right (250m, Scottish III). From the summit we descended the west slopes on skis.

On Lemaire Island we climbed the two most easterly summits (Pt. 600m and Pt. 650m), east of Rojas Peak. We ascended the east ridges of both at PD. We also made the first ascent of an unnamed peak of ca 700m two nautical miles southwest of Steinheil Point in Andvord Bay, using a camp on the Almirante Ice Fringe.

Next to Tournachon Peak, two nautical miles south of Spring Point in Brialmont Cove, we made the first ascent of Peak 949m via the east face (PD). We also climbed the northwest face of Mt. Hoegh and made an attempt on the unclimbed northeast spur of Dallmeyer Peak (1,600m), reaching an altitude of 1,350m (PD+), where we were stopped by an enormous crevasse. 

In January 2014, I joined Jackie and Neville Nuckey, and Warren Dobe, on Icebird. Apart from climbing a number of popular peaks, we made the probable first ascent of a superb 10-pitch couloir (Scottish II) to summit an unnamed peak above the northern shores of Skontorp Cove in Paradise Harbour.



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