In the first week of December, Scott Bennett and I took advantage of a short, windy weather window. Looking for a sheltered and manageable daylong objective, we opted for a beautiful line of splitter cracks that Scott had spied on the west face of Guillaumet while opening Manos al Cielo (Bennett-Lempke, AAJ 2012).

We approached from Piedra Negra over the col, directly beneath the Fonrouge Ridge, which deposited us beneath the west face. Our new route, Bossanova (400m, 5.11+ A1), is situated on the far right side of the face and starts 30m right of Manos al Cielo. It takes an independent line to the ridge and consists of sustained, difficult crack climbing on immaculate granite. It will almost certainly go all free. The route is testament to Scott’s vision for a fine line and fantastic onsight rock climbing abilities.

Graham Zimmerman, USA