El Tridente, east face, La Piqueta Voladora

Argentina-Chile, Chaltén Massif
Author: Jack Cramer . Climb Year: 2014. Publication Year: 2014.

On January 22, 2014, Drew Smith and I climbed the east face of an unclimbed tower on the west side of the Pollone massif, just north of Aguja Tito Carrasco. After climbing an approach couloir, we navigated two pitches of ice and snow up a ramp (75°). From there we gained a slippery, ice-filled squeeze chimney (M4) and then followed easier terrain to the summit. The peak lies on the ridgeline running north to south between Aguja Tito Carrasco and the Gran Gendarme, and we named it El Tridente after the three-pronged summit. We called our route La Piqueta Voladora (The Flying Axe, 230m, 75º M4) after a foolhardy toss of our third ice tool from the leader to the follower.

Jack Cramer, USA