After forcing about eight days of relaxed living, the Patagonian wind gave Dave Macleod and I a promising weather window. We bivied at Piedra Negra, intending to climb Aguja Mermoz’s east face by either Vol de Nuit (Andy Parkin, solo) or a new line farther right. However, after digging an avalanche pit we decided instead to try the right side of Guillaumet’s east face (right of the Amy-Vidailhet Couloir), where we suspected a system of rime-covered cracks to be unclimbed.

After a short and easy intro pitch, we arrived at a thin runnel of snow and ice leading up a corner. Dave took the lead, and despite its modest appearance the pitch requiring thin tool-torquing in a parallel-sided crack. The next pitch was also thin and sustained, starting up twin cracks before a traverse left to an awkward groove. After another couple of great, sustained pitches, we arrived at what we expected to be easy ground, but it wasn’t yet in the bag. Dave headed upward and out of sight, employing consecutive stein pulls and then climbing a slab with only just enough thin ice to make it go.

We were very fortunate to have found such a great line. It could easily have been too difficult, or a bit of a pushover, but it was just right. It would be a classic in Chamonix! Altogether the six-pitch route weighed in at Scottish grade VIII, with a few easier pitches.

Calum Muskett