Atardecer, Doña Debora de Dedos
Chile-Argentina, Northern Patagonia, Cochamó
I’ve spent 10 seasons of my life climbing in the awesome big-wall destination of Cochamó Valley, and the devouring finger crack of my new route Doña Debora de Dedos (450m, 5.12b) is the best I’ve ever climbed. Others who have repeated it agreed and have since dubbed it “3D.”
Jose Dattoli (Chile), Cristian Gallardo (Argentina), Ezequiel Manoni (Argentina), Chris Kalman (USA), and I all took part in opening this nine-pitch route, starting in March 2012 and finishing in January 2013. The route begins just right of Al Centro y Adentro (Haab-Seeliger, AAJ 2012), following obvious dihedrals that split the Atardecer wall in the upper valley of Anfiteatro. The first six pitches climb some of the best finger cracks in existence—from tips to great locks to off-fingers. The two 5.12 pitches may scare away many, but they shouldn’t—there’s plenty of 5.11 climbing to be had. The third pitch (5.12a) is probably the most classic on the route, a continuous fingertip splitter that will leave most panting until its end. Pitch five (5.12b) falls into the same category, but on steeper rock in a left-facing dihedral. This will undoubtedly become a classic, must-do route in Cochamó.
Daniel Seeliger, Chile