Acopan Tepui, east face, Escalador Selvático

Venezuela
Author: Maurizio Oviglia . Climb Year: 2014. Publication Year: 2014.

At the end of January 2014, Rolando Larcher, Luca Giupponi, and I began climbing a route in between the newly established route Gravity Inversion (AAJ 2014) and Pizza, Chocolate y Cerveza. The route contained fantastic climbing in a unique environment, and it was very continuous all the way to the summit. The beautiful, ultra-overhanging rock surpassed all our expectations, except for the final meters which we breached “Tarzan” style. We reached the summit on February 6 after seven days of climbing. While mostly free, a few pitches remained to be redpointed.

Two days after our climb, on February 8, Rolando and Luca made the route’s first redpoint ascent. After an intense 14 hours on the face, they finished climbing by the light of their headlamps. We called the climb Escalador Selvático (630m, 18 pitches, 7c+). The face overhangs at least 50m, making the abseils complicated; gear needs to be clipped during the descent to remain close enough to the rock. All told, we placed 36 bolts on the climb, including belays.

Maurizio Oviglia, Italy



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