Snowpatch Spire, north face, the Dark Prince

Canada, Bugaboos
Author: Chris Brazeau . Climb Year: 2013. Publication Year: 2014.

In the summer of 2008 Paul McSorley casually mentioned a line he had scoped on the north face of Snowpatch Spire, starting about 40m right of Sunshine Crack. [The un-freed Hell or Highwater (8 pitches 5.11 A2, Langsford-Moorhead, 2007) climbs between these two lines.] Since it was just a short stroll from Applebee Camp, I was easily convinced to have a closer look. A good effort on our first attempt that year got us to the top of the crux sixth pitch (5.12-). We had two pitches and plenty of light left, but there were friends back in camp, and it was happy hour, so down we went.

Five years later I finally climbed the final two pitches and scrubbed the route for the send, climbing it with Jon Simms. Many different partners had helped bring the line to fruition: the Dark Prince (8 pitches, 5.12-).

Chris Brazeau, Canada



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