Snowpatch Spire, north face, the Dark Prince
Canada, Bugaboos
 In the summer of 2008 Paul McSorley casually mentioned a line he had scoped on the north face of Snowpatch Spire, starting about 40m right of Sunshine Crack. [The un-freed Hell or Highwater (8 pitches 5.11 A2, Langsford-Moorhead, 2007) climbs between these two lines.] Since it was just a short stroll from Applebee Camp, I was easily convinced to have a closer look. A good effort on our first attempt that year got us to the top of the crux sixth pitch (5.12-). We had two pitches and plenty of light left, but there were friends back in camp, and it was happy hour, so down we went.
In the summer of 2008 Paul McSorley casually mentioned a line he had scoped on the north face of Snowpatch Spire, starting about 40m right of Sunshine Crack. [The un-freed Hell or Highwater (8 pitches 5.11 A2, Langsford-Moorhead, 2007) climbs between these two lines.] Since it was just a short stroll from Applebee Camp, I was easily convinced to have a closer look. A good effort on our first attempt that year got us to the top of the crux sixth pitch (5.12-). We had two pitches and plenty of light left, but there were friends back in camp, and it was happy hour, so down we went.
Five years later I finally climbed the final two pitches and scrubbed the route for the send, climbing it with Jon Simms. Many different partners had helped bring the line to fruition: the Dark Prince (8 pitches, 5.12-).
Chris Brazeau, Canada
 
 
