American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing
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Nupchu I and II, clarification

Nepal, Ohmi Kangri Himal

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Author: Lindsay Griffin and Rodolphe Popier
  • Climb Year: N/A
  • Publication Year: 2015

In AAJ 2014 we published a panorama looking from Syao Kang toward the Kangchenjunga massif, on which was marked the peak Nupchu (6,044m). While this correctly identifies the peak marked as "Nupchu" on the HGM-Finn map, it is not the peak climbed in 1962 by Sasuke Nakao's Japanese expedition and named Nupchu. The Japanese climbed a separate peak about two kilometers west along the watershed ridge, marked on HGM-Finn with a spot height of 6,172m. To avoid confusion, it is proposed that this be referred to as Nupchu I, and the unclimbed lower peak as Nupchu II (6,044m).

Nupchu I has two tops, and the east top is the one marked on the map at 6,172m. However, Google Earth implies the west is perhaps slightly higher. It is not completely clear whether the Japanese, who made their final ascent from the east, continued the short distance to the west top. The Japanese also named "Sato Peak," which is Point 5,788m on the HGM-Finn map, south of Nupchu I.

Lindsay Griffin and Rodolphe Popier, from information provided by Richard Salisbury

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