Sosbun Group, Solu Glacier, Pakora Brakk, Rodeoplatten; Pakora Brakk Puke (4,980m GPS)
Pakistan, Karakoram, Spantik-Sosbun Range
One year after our first expedition to the beautiful Solu Glacier (see AAJ 2013), Gaby Lappe, Clemens Pischel, and I returned with a load of big-wall equipment to the village of Bisil and pastures of Pakora. Once more, it was not only a climbing trip but also a cultural journey.
From the many impressive unclimbed peaks we observed in 2012, we chose Pakora Brakk, immediately northwest of Pakora. Conveniently located directly above a lake with sandy beach, the huge southeast-facing walls of Pakora Brakk rise high over the glacier, offering great views and solid rock.
After pitching base camp, we headed to the rocks, adding one pitch after another to create Pakora Brakk's first route. Rodeoplatten (570m of height gain, 860m of climbing) ascends the central face and offers 18 pitches of excellent climbing up to UIAA VI. We had completed the first four pitches, up a rock pillar, in 2012.
From the top of Rodeoplatten, at 4,529m, we continued to Pakora Brakk Puke, the next peak behind. Getting there involved climbing a gully of ice and scree, with a few meters of thin 80° ice behind a chockstone. Then came long, easy rock slopes of UIAA I and II, snowfields, a very exposed 70m ridge (UIAA V), and finally rock slopes (UIAA I and II) that led to the summit (35°58'28''N, 75°25'19''E). The route was rappelled.
There is potential for many more routes on good rock on the impressive wall of Pakora Brakk. With a base camp located at 3,650m, it is also a useful stopover for acclimatization on the way to the unclimbed granite peaks further up the Solu Glacier.