East Rosebud Canyon, Lower Doublet, Line of Constant Sorrow

Montana, Absaroka-Beartooth Wilderness
Author: Ian Cavanaugh . Climb Year: 2013. Publication Year: 2014.

There are many impressive walls in East Rosebud Canyon, but few are as proud and spectacular looking as the Doublets. The Upper Doublet is a monster at approximately 2,000’, perched high on the west side of the canyon; the Lower Doublet, at 1,500’, rises just to the left and is just as impressive.

The Doublets host a few imposing lines, both free and aid, but the history is vague and somewhat hidden, like most Beartooths climbing. The Lower Doublet has seen a lot of attempts but very few successes. While shorter than the Upper Doublet, it’s steeper and slightly cleaner, but with seemingly few options for routes. Large parts of the southwest side—the side you see from Snow Creek Trail—have rather poor rock. The west face has better rock but is steeper and more compact.

My first attempt at this wall, with Max Bechdel, left us at the top of pitch one, exhausted, humbled, and craving a second chance. After many nights poring over photos, we found a weakness in the center of the west face—a single crack system that ran practically straight up the center-left side.

After many attempts, often cut short by storms, Artley Goodhart joined Max Bechdel and I to see our project though. Max and I amassed six attempts spread out over three years, vying for a first ascent. With Artley, we finally succeeded on our seventh trip, reaching the top of the Lower Doublet on June 15 after a two-day push employing a portaledge, and thus put an end to the Line of Constant Sorrow (1,500’, 12 pitches, V 5.12 C1). We freed all but the fifth pitch (proposed 5.12d). We rappelled the route, drilling bolted rappel anchors on our way down to encourage repeat ascents.

[Editor's Note: Thanks to additional contributor Max Bechdel and for route line assistance from Pat Callis, Jack Tackle, Frank Annighofer, and Ron Brunckhorst.]



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