American Alpine Jounrna and Accidents in North American Climbing

Nemju Himal (6,404m), northwest flank and southwest ridge, attempt

Nepal, Peri Himal

  • Climbs And Expeditions
  • Author: Paulo Grobel
  • Climb Year: 2013
  • Publication Year: 2014

The post-monsoon season was characterized by two heavy snowfalls, resulting in substantial snow depth at altitude that made progress either very difficult or impossible for many expeditions. This was exemplified on the 7,000m peaks accessed from the Phu Valley, where there were no successes on Ratni Chuli, Nemjung, and Gyajikang. We were alone on the standard route up the west ridge of Gyajikang, one of the most beautiful in Nepal at the grade (PD+). Although unable to summit, we did pioneer a new descent from mid-height on the ridge to the Krung Glacier, and from there directly to Phu. The main advantage is that it avoids the re-ascent of the rappels from the north flank of the west ridge.

The south flank of Gyajikang's west ridge has a subsidiary southwest spur that rises from the direction of Kyang, crosses an unclimbed top named Nemju Himal, and connects with the west ridge via a narrow, difficult crest. It will provide a great project for tightrope walkers.

Nemju Himal is not yet on the permitted list, but we tried it in December during a mountaineering training course for Nepalese females, a project inaugurated by Salewa and called Sherpa Women. After making base camp on the Yangkar pastures, and one high camp above, we were stopped by high winds at ca 6,000m.

Paulo Grobel, France

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