Singu Chuli (6,501m), historical correction

Asia, Nepal, Annapurna Himal
Author: Lindsay Griffin, Mountain INFO. Climb Year: 1982. Publication Year: 2014.

While acclimatizing before their ill-fated attempt on the south face of Annapurna in 1982, and to inspect the east ridge as a possible descent, René Ghilini, Alex MacIntyre, and John Porter are reported in most references to have climbed a new route up the steep, fluted, west face of Singu Chuli. This is incorrect.

The three more or less followed the standard approach to Tharpu Chulu (Tent Peak), but continued past it to gain the crest of Singu Chuli's south ridge, which they followed over the summit and up to Tarke Kang (Glacier Dome, 7,168m), stopping 10m below the summit. From here they followed the ridge toward Kangsar Kang (Roc Noir) until stopped by wind slab above 7,200m. It is not certain who did the first ascent of the south ridge of Singu Chuli, but it had been climbed at least once before. The grade was about D.

Retracing their steps, they gained the saddle before Singu Chuli, and then descended a prominent spur on the west face until they reached the glacier terrace below Singu Chuli's west face. They crossed this south, then descended another spur to the valley. All this proved more exciting than the ascent. The first part of their route down was not ascended until 1984, and the lower section, below the terrace, not until 2002.

Lindsay Griffin, Mountain INFO



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