Marty Schmidt, 1960–2013

Author: Giovannina Cantale. Climb Year: 2013. Publication Year: 2014.

From a young age Marty was passionate about going to the hills. The mountains were the one place on this Earth that truly nurtured his soul. There, he felt free and found his balance between the horizontal and vertical worlds.

Guiding clients was his calling: to bring them to stunning, breathtaking places in the mountains, where the heart stands still in a moment of awe. The beauty of the elements around him made him feel alive. Being on the edge, where there is a fine line between life and death, led him to appreciate his life and live every day to the fullest.

Marty’s climbing philosophy was holistic, in line with his spiritual nature. No oxygen and no Sherpas past base camp. Known as one of the fastest and strongest climbers, he was well-respected by the Sherpa community and his climbing mates. He was a lovable, charming, and sensitive man with bucket loads of energy—an irrepressible bright light that seemed indestructible. His enthusiasm made you feel special, and that anything and everything was possible. You name it, and Marty would take you there.

He loved to connect with his clients and share his life experience to work through the challenges of climbing. With his help, they went beyond their own limits for a truly life-changing experience, and often came back for more. Marty made his clients feel like they were his best friends, always being present and giving them his full attention. The skills Marty learned during his years working as a pararescue jumper in the U.S. Air Force Special Operations prepared him for later stages in his life. He was ready to give up everything to help a person in need, in keeping with the Pararescue motto, “That others may live."

Marty traveled the globe extensively, and his love for culture and nature would always bring him back to Aotearoa (New Zealand), his adopted home. He loved the people and his simple lifestyle, growing vegetables and looking after Mother Earth, a true Kiwi at heart.

We miss you, Marty, and will remember you always when we see a silent, snow-capped mountain.

Giovannina Cantale



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