Nenek Semukut, Damai Sentosa
Malaysia, Tioman Island
In April the international team of Stephanie Bodet and Arnaud Petit (France), Yong Liu (China), and I, with help from local Tam Khairudin Haja, climbed a new route on the south tower of Nenek Semukut (a.k.a., the Dragon Horns or Nekek Semukut). Our line is to the right of Batu Naga (Rivera-Wright, 2011), following well-featured slabs on the right side of the southwest face. Damai Sentosa (“In the Name of Peace”) is graded 6c+ (6b+ obl.), with 280m of rock climbing and ca 150m of steep jungle climbing. We opened the route ground-up, and it is mostly bolted, with only a few cams needed. On May 4, together with Tam Khairudin, I redpointed the line. Nenek Semukut is among the highest rock faces in Southeast Asia. As of early 2014 there were seven routes. [See topo photos below. Click here for route names and grades, and click here for practical travel information for this area.]
David Kaszlikowski, Poland